c/blacksmiths

I finally tried a slack tub after years of thinking it was just extra work

I mean, I always just used a regular water bucket for my hot cuts and punches. But I saw a video from a smith in Kentucky who showed the difference in scale removal after a week of heavy forging. His tools from the slack tub looked almost new, while mine had that thick crust. I switched over about two months ago and the edges on my top tools stay sharp way longer now. Has anyone else found it makes that big a difference for tool care?

I finally tried quenching in used motor oil for a tough steel and the results were wild

Working on a big axe head from 5160 steel, my normal canola oil quench just wasn't getting it hard enough. The edge kept rolling after a few test chops. Out of ideas, I filtered some old 10W-30 from my truck and tried it. The quench was way more violent, lots of smoke, but the file just skated off after. I tempered it at 400 for two hours and it's holding an edge like a dream now. But I've heard guys say used oil can cause cracks or inconsistent hardness. Has anyone else run this experiment and found a sweet spot, or is it just asking for trouble?

Had a customer in Knoxville ask for a 'rustic' finish on a set of fireplace tools, then get mad when it actually looked like old, pitted iron. He said it looked 'dirty'. Where do you draw the line on interpreting a client's vague request?

I had to decide between a cheap 2x72 grinder or saving for a better one, and after 6 months of saving I finally got the KMG and it's a total game changer for my bevels.

What's your go-to grinder setup for bladesmithing?

My old post vise gave out on me last Tuesday while I was twisting some 1/2 inch square stock.

The main screw just sheared right off, and I had a hot piece of steel flopping around (not fun). I ended up having to forge a new screw from some 4140 round bar I had, but it took me most of the afternoon. Has anyone found a good source for replacement vise screws, or should I just keep making my own?

That hinge pin I forged from scratch actually swings smooth now

After filing it down a bit more, it finally moves without any grind or catch.

Can we talk about online steel orders coming with cracks?

I ordered mild steel from a big online site. When I forged it, the bars cracked and had uneven carbon with slag bits. Other smiths nearby have seen the same thing this month. Be careful with where you buy your steel now.

Found out soaking coal overnight cuts down on forge smoke, any similar tricks?

Seeing smoke from my shop made me rethink coal forges

I know many blacksmiths stick with coal for tradition, but I think it's time to change. The black smoke from my old forge was hurting our local air, so I switched to propane. My new setup cuts down on soot and waste, like not having piles of ash to deal with. Some say coal heats metal better, but in my tests, propane does the job just fine. We need to care more about our planet while we work. Making small shifts like this can help keep our craft alive for the future.

Serious question, why do home forge safety rules get ignored?

I keep seeing forges set up with no thought to sparks. Flammable stuff is way too close. My setup has a concrete back wall and metal shelving. It's not pretty, but it's safe.

Switching to earplugs made my shop time way more peaceful

I never wore hearing protection while forging because I liked hearing the metal. After a few months, the constant ringing got pretty annoying. Grabbed some basic foam plugs on a whim last week. Now I can work for hours without that headache afterward. Maybe it's just me, but I wish I did it sooner.

My neighbor's clean forge work with a slack tub won me over after years of avoiding it.

TIL that taking the time to normalize steel saves so much headache later.

I used to rush straight to quenching from the forge. Now I let it cool slowly first, and my work doesn't warp as much.