Yeah the "tiny bullet hole" thing is exactly what I'm talking about. I've had to fix that on three different jobs now and honestly it's not worth the headache if the frame is gonna be seen. Here's the thing though - if you absolutely have to use pocket screws on a visible face frame, back the depth stop off by like a full turn and test it on scrap first. Most guys just send it and don't realize how much that screw angle changes once you get close to the front edge. The dimples are even worse than a full blowout because they're shallow and wood filler never seems to stay in them right, it always shrinks back after a week. I switched back to dowels for any frame that's getting stain or clear coat and pocket screws only for painted stuff where I can hide the marks with putty and primer.

Wait, hold on. Two hours early? On a Tuesday? I think that would freak me out more than a normal bad shift. Like, I'd be standing there in the hangar waiting for the other shoe to drop, half expecting the plane to start singing or something. You probably kept checking your watch, right? I'm surprised you didn't open up a random panel just to make sure there wasn't a gremlin hiding in there playing a joke on you. That's some twilight zone level stuff right there.

Man I been doing the same thing. Silky for the delicate stuff where I want control and the battery saw for chunks and it saves so much time. The key is knowing when to grab which one before you start cutting.

I used to be all about buying new tools because I figured old stuff was just junk. But then my buddy let me try his granddad's 1950s Stanley plane on a maple board and it was night and day. That old plane took some elbow grease to dial in, but it cut clean without any chatter. My plastic one from the hardware store is honestly just frustrating to use now. This post really flipped my thinking on old vs new tools.

Yeah I did the exact same thing and now my wallet's got more pitting than those nozzles lol.