Oh man, prints are such a gamble sometimes. I had a similar thing happen with a digital painting I spent ages on, looked great on my iPad but when I got it printed at Costco the blacks turned into a weird purple blob. Midjourney upscalers are sneaky like that, I've had to learn the hard way to check every single pixel before sending to print.

Used to think bark-down looked best too, but this makes way more sense.

fiona502 says "most of the time it IS just the thermal fuse," but how do you actually know that without verifying it first? That's the whole point - you're guessing at the most common part failure instead of confirming the underlying issue. Replacing a thermal fuse without checking airflow is like swapping a blown fuse in your house without finding out what caused the short (spoiler: it'll blow again). The thermal fuse is a safety device, not a wear item - it blows for a reason, and that reason is usually restricted airflow. So if you're not checking that first, you're not fixing the problem, you're just playing a guessing game that burns money. How many times have you gone back to a job because you skipped the easy step of checking the vent before swapping parts?

Nah, the structure is what makes it actually useful though.

Yeah, so just a heads up - Topaz Gigapixel and the regular Topaz DeNoise/Sharpen are actually different programs, you know? Gigapixel is for upscaling, not really for fixing the smooth plastic look everyone complains about. That weird over-smoothed thing usually comes from the regular Topaz Photo AI or the older DeNoise if you push it too hard. I've had way better luck backing off the strength slider and using the mask tool to protect things like skin texture. The free trial is a good call though, definitely test it before buying.