The way people are using 20 volume developer for everything is a real problem

I mean, I see it all the time in my chair and on social media, folks just grabbing 20 vol for every single color job. It's way too strong for a lot of things. I had a client come in last Tuesday with hair that felt like straw because her old stylist used 20 vol on a simple root touch-up for six months straight. You only need 10 vol for deposit-only color, and 20 vol is for lifting maybe two levels. Using it wrong breaks down the hair cuticle way too fast. It's not a one-size-fits-all product. Has anyone else had to fix a ton of damage from this lately?

3 comments

3 Comments

troyjackson2mo ago

Can we talk about the 20 vol on dark hair trend? I'm guilty of overusing it early on and had to fix my own mess, so I get the appeal of a strong developer. That rush to lift can really backfire when the hair just snaps off.

lisa_murray2mo ago

Honestly, sometimes you just need that aggressive lift to get anywhere on level 4 hair. A slower developer means more heat damage from repeated processing. If you know your timing and monitor it closely, a 20 volume can be the cleaner, faster route to a good blonde.

spencer_ross1mo ago

You're right that it's a problem, but the real issue is education, not the developer itself. A lot of stylists just aren't taught proper formulation. 20 volume is a tool, and a good one when you need that lift. Blaming the product ignores the need for better training on when and how to use it correctly. The damage comes from wrong application, not from the developer being in the salon. We should focus on fixing the knowledge gap.